In the quiet commune of Saint-Romain, where vines whisper tales of centuries past, one family stands as a testament to Burgundy's rich winemaking heritage—the Buisson family. Neal Martin of Vinous has cast his discerning eye on them, heralding the Buissons as the next generation of Burgundian superstars.
Generational Legacy:
The Buisson family's journey through the vineyards of Saint-Romain dates back to the 11th century. However, it was in the 1920s that they began acquiring vineyards around Beaune, laying the foundation for what would become Domaine Henri et Gilles Buisson. In the 1950s, Henri and Marguerite Buisson took the helm, with Henri pioneering domaine bottling in 1947. Their son, Gilles, alongside his wife Monica, continued the legacy in the 1980s. Under their stewardship, the estate expanded, encompassing prestigious vineyards in Corton, Pommard, Meursault, Volnay, and Beaune.
Sons Taking the Helm:
As the 2000s unfolded, Gilles gracefully handed over the reins to his sons, Franck and Frédérick. Franck, the elder of the two, oversees the business side of operations, ensuring the smooth continuity of the family legacy. Meanwhile, the younger brother, Fred, born in 1985, emerged as the artisan behind the wines. His journey into winemaking was not only nurtured within the family but enriched by experiences with some of Burgundy's best.
Winemaking Philosophy:
Fred's winemaking journey began in earnest in 2006 when he joined the family cellar. His formative years were marked by apprenticeships under luminaries like Anne-Claude Leflaive, Jean-Claude Boisset, and Ludivine Grivot, the Hospice de Beaune winemaker. Embracing a natural approach to winemaking, Fred implemented a gravity-feed system in 2006 and initiated experiments with sulphur effects on the family's wines from 2010. These experiments led to the creation of two sans soufre cuvées, a unique offering in Saint-Romain.
Biodynamic Certification:
In 2018, the Buisson estate achieved a milestone by obtaining biodynamic certification. This commitment to sustainable and holistic viticulture reflects their respect for the land and the pursuit of expressing the unique terroir of Saint-Romain.
Saint-Romain's Terroir:
Saint-Romain, situated about 3 km west of Meursault, has traditionally been perceived as producing less profound wines than its illustrious neighbors. However, with the effects of global warming, this narrative is evolving. The Buissons cultivate seven climates within the appellation—five white and two red—representing a quarter of their total vineyard land. The higher elevation of Saint-Romain challenges old perceptions, producing wines of increasing profundity.
In the west-facing shoulder, where Sous la Velle and Sous le Château are located, the soils boast a higher proportion of marl, providing an ideal environment for chardonnay. On the opposing side, where Sous Roche meets Combe Bazin, the soils feature a higher iron content, favoring Pinot Noir.
The Buisson estate, through its thoughtful and biodynamic approach, captures the essence of Saint-Romain's unique terroir. Fred's meticulous experiments with barrel sizes, sulphur effects, and natural winemaking contribute to the family's distinctive cuvées, adding a new chapter to the legacy of Domaine Henri et Gilles Buisson.
